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 Squibs 
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 Post subject: Squibs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:09 am 
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While shooting how do you tell if you have a squib?

How hard is a squib to pound out? If needed say a 5" 9mm.

What are the right tools for that job?


If there is a FAQ, a URL would be great.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:20 am 
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I've often heard a wooden dowel and a rubber mallet but have no first hand personal experience.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:38 am 
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I've encountered several (10 to 15) squib loads while being the Range Officer for IPSIC & IDPA matches. I made up a brass rod about 6 inches long. 9 mm most of the length but 45 on the end.

When working a match I have stopped the shooters and used it to check for the stuck bullet. I then give them the rod to take the pistol to the safety area where they drive the bullet out with the brass rod. It doesn't take a lot. Just a few taps on the rod is all it ever takes to drive the bullet out. Lead or jacketed are about the same.

The real trick is to stop the shooter before he can rack in a new round.

I've also had a couple double charges ruining the gun.

All of these malfunctions have been with reloads.

I use a Dillon Powder Check on my Dillon 650 press.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:46 am 
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I pulled a few bullets from some .44 Mag rounds. In the process of pulling them with an inertial puller, I dumped the powder and bullets into a bowl. Through sheer carelessness on my part, when I dumped the powder, I got a bullet into the powder magazine.

The net result was off powder charges on about 50 .41 Mag rounds. So far off that I did indeed get a bullet stuck in the barrel of my Model 57.

To answer your question, it was OBVIOUS that something was wrong when I fired the first 1-2 rounds -- extremely light recoil; light enough that I grabbed a brass rod I carry in my range bag to make sure the bore was unobstructed. The round that stuck was lighter yet, and when I ran the rod down the bore, sure enough, that ended the day's .41 Mag shooting.

I went to the hardware store and bought a dowel rod close to the bore size, cut it to about 10 inches and tapped the round out. I was bummed to tap it out the breach, but I didn't have a setup to run it out the muzzle end.

My guess is that squib loads wouldn't cycle most autoloaders, but I don't know for sure. My one and only squib was in a revolver. The good(?) news for autoloaders is you can strip out the barrel and tap the bullet out breech-to-muzzle.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:32 pm 
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I would not use a wooden dowel if at all possible, I did see the time when one used and it split and wedged between the bullet and barrel. A piece of brass rod also purchased at a hardware store would probably be the best.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 1:21 pm 
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Usually a dowel will only split on a spitzer type bullet.. but a brass rod at the hardware store is only a few dollars.

I have also seen 1/4" carriage bolts used in a long length but they were wrapped a few times in electricians tape to prevent bore contact. The round head of the bolt allows for easier hitting with an available object.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 1:33 pm 
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1911fan wrote:
Usually a dowel will only split on a spitzer type bullet.. but a brass rod at the hardware store is only a few dollars.

I have also seen 1/4" carriage bolts used in a long length but they were wrapped a few times in electricians tape to prevent bore contact. The round head of the bolt allows for easier hitting with an available object.



Yeah - available object = forehead... Better tape up the head of the bolt as well.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 7:28 pm 
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Well while not the preferred method, it was cheap, available and functional, the end that went into the barrel had a series of tape wraps on it, the threads had a series of tape wraps, and the head was taped up. the available object that got the slug out was a bootheel. While not optimum, it did the job and an afternoon of shooting fun was not lost.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:21 pm 
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1911fan wrote:
Well while not the preferred method, it was cheap, available and functional, the end that went into the barrel had a series of tape wraps on it, the threads had a series of tape wraps, and the head was taped up. the available object that got the slug out was a bootheel. While not optimum, it did the job and an afternoon of shooting fun was not lost.


Hey if it works. I was just kidding.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 1:36 am 
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is ok, was just going on to tell why such a unusual method was used.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:34 pm 
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Most of my squibs have been extremely hard to drive out. A wooden dowel was out of the question.

A brass rod, as described above, worked, but only when the muzzle of the gun was clamped in a machinist's vise, protected with leather, of course.

It still took many thumps with a five-pound maul to drive them out of the bore. These were jacketed .38s, and yes, I put a caliper on other bullets from the same lot, and all measured .357 or near enough.

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