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 New Srigs Holsters - Now with Updated Pics Finished 
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 Post subject: New Srigs Holsters - Now with Updated Pics Finished
PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:29 pm 
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Well I finished my holster from our holster making class from last Saturday's Tandy class. :D

What I learned...
1. Thinking about your pattern before you cut the leather
2. Cut it larger
3. Know what you want
4. Take your time
5. Making the holster is not a problem making it really nice is more of a challenge

What went right...
1. The holster is what I wanted
2. The training by Tandy team and TCC holster experts helped greatly
3. It is holding together great
4. Easier than I thought to complete
5. I was able do lacing

What went wrong...
1. The lacing is straight on the front but the back is another story
2. Couple of cuts on the leather went out of control a bit

What is left to do...
1. I need to determine how to finish it??? Medium brown is what I'm thinking
2. Buy more leather, stains and finish from Tandy so I can make more

Review:
I made the holster as a strong side OWB for my P11 with a side guide for the blued slide does not rub against the side or skin. The holster holds the gun with no retention strap due to the wet forming with out any problem but I wonder how it will hold up. I have used it twice this week on Wednesday and Thursday going to Gander MT, Target and Cub and it carries like it is not there.

All in all I"M HOOKED on making my own holsters!!! :D :D :D Take a look...

Image

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Image

Image

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Last edited by Srigs on Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:48 pm 
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Nice job.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:34 pm 
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Cool! What kind of leather did you use?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:41 pm 
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Pat Cannon wrote:
Cool! What kind of leather did you use?


6 or 7 oz Oak Leaf I think? It was great to learn how. (Edited to update oz)

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"If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton


Last edited by Srigs on Sat Jan 27, 2007 1:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:52 pm 
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That is good looking man...how long does it take (avg.) to learn? And what equipment do you use to cut/stitch the leather?

Red


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:13 am 
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Good work Srigs! That class was a blast- it was great to get a chance to trade ideas and encouragement with everyone. You've got a nice looking holster there.

The one I made in December has held up well, and still retains excellently, with no strap, under near-daily use. I would expect yours will last a long time.

As per finishing, here are a couple of things I've learned:

1) Use the "Professional" dye. It's more expensive, but the cheap stuff tends to rub on on clothes, etc.

2) Use a good leather dressing of some sort. I know Johan likes the Aussie stuff. I personally have had great luck with Bickmore's Bick 4. Tandy doesn't sell it, but Schatzlein's Saddle Shop on Lake St. does, as I'm sure other western and saddle shops do.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:12 am 
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Man...That looks good for your first one! Now I really wish I could of went to the how-to session.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 1:30 pm 
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This will be addicting. :D

I just got back from Tandy in St Paul and picked up some more leather, edger, light brown "Professional" stain, top coat, metal clip, rivets and a 4 hole lacing punch (will help to keep the lacing straight). My next one with be an IWB with metal clip.

I'll post some more of the holster after I finish it. :)

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"If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 1:41 pm 
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Just incase anyone wondered about actually finding a Tandy location.

http://www.tandyleather.com/Locations.asp

Since I looked it up I thought I'd post it for the lazy 8) Though I doubt I'd ever take this on.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 4:08 pm 
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Red XIII wrote:
That is good looking man...how long does it take (avg.) to learn? And what equipment do you use to cut/stitch the leather?

Red


The class was 3 hours long. At the end of the class we had rough cut the leather and wet formed the leather, learned how to lace together the holster, finish the edge and quick discussion on how to finish the holster.

I bought a leather kit from them for @50 out the door that had the needles, thread, marking wheel, edge grove cutter and the threading awl.

About 2.5 hours at home to lace it by hand.
About 1 hour to finish the final cutting
About 1 hour with hot water wetting the whole holster and final forming. This step helps make it solidify more
Then let it dry over night with the gun in it (covered in plastic wrap)
About .5 hour to burnish the edge

I have another couple of hours to finish staining and finishing. Usually waiting for finishes to dry hopefully tonight. :D

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Srigs

Side Guard Holsters
"If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:13 am 
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Srigs wrote:
This will be addicting. :D



It's big time addicting. :D

Nice job on your holster. You learn with each one you make. Keep up the good work. 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:47 am 
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Wow, that looks like fun. Nice job!
Can't wait to see the IWB.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:20 am 
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I stained it and put the top coat on and I'm waiting for it to fully dry. They I will try it out and post a couple of finished product pictures. :D

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Side Guard Holsters
"If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:28 pm 
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Sweet! That is awesome.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 6:09 am 
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Srigs wrote:
I stained it and put the top coat on and I'm waiting for it to fully dry. They I will try it out and post a couple of finished product pictures. :D


well done! Now I need to get mine finished. It's re-stitched(I had the clip in the wrong place and the angle too shallow) and it wears fine but it's unfinished. I also made a speed strip pouch and cut a pattern for a strong side pancake like you have.

I think the tools that would make it better for me are the edge beveler and the stitching gouger. The wheel would come in a close third. at home you can use a scribe to mark the hole spacing if you're real careful. you could also make a crude spacer by drilling two holes in a board and putting small nails through.


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