I'm planning on attending. Let's have it at hypertech's place.

Should I put a table and a couple folding chairs in the van?

As to supplies, a shoulder of leather from Tandy Leather in Bloomington is ~$20 IIRC. Ask Johan. He's a great guy.

Short of buying leather, I'd say if you showed up with $5 for whomever had exra on their shoulder, you'd be welcome to it. If that's your intention, speak up and one of the people who've already bought shoulders can be sure to bring extra.

If you are going to buy something, an awl would be my recommendation. That's the tool that gets the most consistent use. I have needles for use / loan and some thread. I even have an awl I'd loan out so you can continue working on your project.

Here are the tools I usually use:
-Ruler
-Protractor for cant and curves
-Quarter,nickel, penny, dime for rounded edges on the pattern
-Paper
-Pencil
-Compass (both ends pointed) - for transferring offsets and enlarging from pattern.
-clean work surface
-CLEAN hands with well trimmed and filed nails (you WILL mark up the leather otherwise
-cup of water with sponge or sponge cloth to wet leather for working
-Standard utility knife with SHARP blade(s)
-Xacto knife (small, precise cuts
-Awl for pattern marking on leather
-Stitching wheel for stitch placement
-leather beveler for clean edges
-gouger for dressy edges and offset gouged lines. I've been using it less and less for stitch lines though since Gary Brommeland told me that the top layer is the strongest layer and by gouging out a channel to stitch you're adding a point of weakness.
-4 prong narrow rectangle profile punch for stitching holes (much easier on my hands)
-1 prong same profile as above for curves and non-linear placement of stitch holes
-mini punch for belt clot rounded parts and for chicago screw mounts
-Chicago screws (google image it) for attachments
-glue for large areas of contacting sewn in leather (Srigs and I have opposite approaches and opinions on this)
-Needles
-Thread: actually, synthetic sinew. Ask Johan about it. I prefer small, tight, woven synthetic sinew. I know Srigs uses a thicher style. YMMV.

Of those, the ones that are do or can't do without are:
sharp utility knife, awl for marking leather, punch for the holes, and needle/thread for stitching.

Oh yeah, sense of adventure, and patience.


The general steps are:
1: create a idea book. look online, shop around, read reviews, decide on the style, look, and features of your proposed holster
2: patterning (plan it out now or pay for it later)
3: rough cut to pattern (make sure of orientation and up / down in / outside of each piece
4: marking of barrel axis stitch line (gives a firm starting point and the pieces of leather stay together
5: general wet form to gun. Wet leather, press to contours of gun
5.5: if you have an additional leather layer for mouthband reinforcement, now is the time to mount it. Same goes for loops and attachments you can't get to once the holster is sewn in shape. Plan ahead and save the aggravation of undoing and reworking.
6: marking of gun perimeter stitch lines (really form it in tight and stitch just slightly tighter than you originally think you should. you CAN stretch leather. It's easier than the shrinking
7: stitch to gun profile
8: trim top and bottom nearly to final shape
9: glue large expanses of leather
10: punch and stitch outside perimeter of holster (end all stitch lines in a 4 stitch back stitch for snugnes)
11: trim to final shape
12: god, detailed forming to the gun
13: bevel and / or gouge decorate edges
14: burnish edges
15: touch up forming
16: let dry
17: dye
18: burnish edges and check for even coaing by dye. recoat if necessary
19: check forming. last chance
20: apply sealant
21: allow to dry
22: enjoy

In between each step, I occasionally put the gun in and check I'm getting it right.

I've never heard of that, and I've been in the leathercraft industry/business for over 15 years. I know of a great number of well-qualified leathercraft craftsman who use this tool daily. I doubt they would do so if such a situation as described here was the case. The only possibility that may exist is if you had a very thin piece of leather to begin with, such as 2-3 ounce in thickness, and you wanted to use it to gouge a line. Did he happen to mention what he was basing his comment on?

K-Man, a bit off topic but..... what is the current wait time for one of your rigs?

RTK

I'll try to attend... it's still a bit far out to say for sure. if I do make it, I've got a fresh hunk of leather I can share...

Gary was gracious enough to talk with me for a half hour or so on several topics. I took notes but they're not all that good . I'll tell you what, I'll PM him at Defensivecarry.com and see if what I posted accurately reflects what he said. This is the way I remember it and what my scribbled notes say but I could have misunderstood. I'll check.

A LONG Detailed reply from Gary pieced together from a couple PM's and a long phone call:

plblark:

Thanks for posting that information. It was interesting to read one's theories, and there's much that could be said with respect to that, and I'll leave it at that. I wish you and the others continued success in the making of holsters.

I plan to be there. I have the basic tools* and lots of scrap leather for practicing (thanks, ttousi).


* All from Tandy: Hand Stitching Kit (Overstitch wheel, stitching awl, groover, needles, thread, wax and The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, by Al Stohlman), stitching pony, Craftool Adjustable Groover, utility knife, wooden cutting board, some black dye and wax.

It will be good to see you there Andrew.

I don't grove any of my leather because Nate from Ugly Bald Guy provided the same info to me that you received Paul.

I do have three custom saddles and the English saddle is not grooved but the two western saddles are.

I'll be there if you have any more room.
I've got some 3-4 and 7-8 oz leather, my small collection of tools, thread etc, dremel stylus, and 1 or 2 unfinished projects.

I suspect he got that piece of advice the same place I did

That must be due to Levis being more abrasive that linen pants......

Is the English, side saddle.........

.

Or steeplechase poles being gentler than barbed wire

*says plblark who will now NOT be getting an invitation out for riding lessons *

Levis were for "Sod Busters" and Miners, no self respecting coyboy would have worn them in the real west

Wool was the meterial of choice for most outer clothes a hundred years ago. If you don't believe me put your levis on and then soak them with water and stand outside in october through april, then try the same thing with wool pants, you'll soon see why

[/hijack]

Partially true on the difference in pants for English vs Western. The English saddle is not Side Saddle.