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 Beretta Neos 
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 Post subject: Beretta Neos
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:51 pm 
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Does anyone else have a beretta neos? Mine is having a problem of the firing pin not releasing when I pull the trigger. I called beretta and the rep on the phone said it might have something to do with a sear spring and to send it into them. I have a couple of questions.

1.) Beretta told me how to ship the firearm to them but how di thewy ship it back? It cannot be shipped to me as I do not have FFL so do I have to get it sent to gander or someplace else with a FFL?

2.) Has anyone else had this problem with there Neos?

3.) Can anyone suggest a local gunsmith who might be able to fix this I took it to gander and the gunsmith there seemed really confused.

Thankx for any help or suggestions.


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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:59 pm 
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Legally a Manufacturer can ship directly back to a customer. So that is no big deal.

A sticking firing pin is either a bunch of crud in the way or a weak spring not having the power to get the pin moving. Either way its an easy fix.


If that doesnt work coming back from the factory send it back.

Two real local gun smiths palmer raysnor. Or randy at territorial gunsmithing in Hopkins. Both are used often by members here.

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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 6:03 pm 
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Ah cool I didn't know manufacurers could ship back to coustomers. But I know it's not crud in the mechanism I cleeaned it and had the Gander gunsmith clean it and it's still sticking and like I said the rep on the phone said it was probbably some small sring in the shear assebly if I rember correctly. if you pull the triger 7 or 8 times the gun will eventually fire but you never know when it will happen.


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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 7:34 pm 
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I don't understand how it could be sticking when it's traveling in the forward-direction motion. I don't have a Neos so I don't know what she's got by way of how the firing pin is released when the sear slips off of it, but I would think you'd be able to inspect the gun to see whether the firing pin is moving forward and then protruding through the breach face. When you pull the trigger and the round doesn't fire, is there a mark on the rim of the case? How about after you've pulled the trigger repeatedly and still not gotten it to fire? If there are dents in the rims, but they look light, I suppose a safety spring that causes the firing pin pull backwards after firing still could be the culprit (if the Neos has such a spring), keeping the pin from moving forward enough. But that would mean that spring is too strong, not too weak, or that there's still gunk in the firing pin channel. If there is also a spring that forces the pin forward, I suppose it could be too weak to push the pin far enough forward.

If you can remove the slide and firing pin from its channel, I would think you could figure this out. I'd pull the firing pin and make sure it's clean and the channel that it slides in is clean. Too many people see a hole in the breach face of guns and put a drop (or more) of oil in there. Usually all that oil does is gunk up the firing pin in its channel, making it stick, and causing light strikes. The only way to make sure it's clean is to pull out the firing pin. Wonder if the GM gunsmith did that????? If you pulled it, you also may be able to tell if the tip of the firing pin is broken or peened, thereby causing your light strike issue.

Also, have you tried different ammo? I suppose it's possible you got a lot of ammo that's harder to set off than some other stuff. Probably rare but possible.

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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 7:58 am 
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I'm not the greatest with guns honestly. I just started shooting a few years ago and I like to take my stuff to an expert rather than fidlle around with stuff I don;t really understand. But as to the ammo question I tried 5 or 6 types of ammo and all had the same problem. When the firing pin finally releases the round goes off but when you pull the trigger alot of times nothing happens. Sometimes there is a "click" noise but the firing pin stays in the ready position. Like I said my main concern is that I never know when I pull the trigger if it will fire or not, and I'm just trying to get an idea of maybe whats happening.


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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:42 pm 
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First off, here's my disclaimer: I'm not telling you to follow the instructions in the attached. I shouldn't have to say that, but there you go.

Second -- because I don't seem to have anything else constructive to be doing tonight -- I think the attached is at least worth a read.

http://hexidismal.awardspace.com/

The guy appears to have done a great job showing how to tear the Neos down. More importantly, however, he shows in "Part 4 - How the Neos works" some drawings he's made to show how the firing pin, firing pin spring, sear and trigger bar work together. It would appear from these drawings and his description that the trigger bar physically pulls the sear off of the firing pin. In that case, I don't see how a weak sear spring could cause your gun not to release the firing pin when you pull the trigger. It sounds like guys actually weaken the sear springs to reduce trigger pull. In other words, it would appear that the weaker the sear spring, the more apt the gun would be to fire -- even possibly accidentally if the sear spring was so weak as to not catch and hold the firing pin when the gun cycled.

In light of your described symptoms, it seems more probably that the trigger isn't resetting to the trigger bar, and thus, when you're pulling the trigger, it's not pulling the trigger bar forward to trip the sear. Still could be that the gun needs a more thorough cleaning. Rimfire .22 is awfully dirty stuff. However, could be something broken or loose in the trigger bar area as well.

Unless you can find someone familiar with these guns in town to help you, it sounds like you're going to be sending her back for repairs.

In light of how much I've just learned about the Neos, I think I may now buy one.

Good luck,

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 Post subject: Same problem...
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 7:31 am 
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My wife's Neos is having the exact same problems and symptoms. There is no strike mark on the primer until the firing pin decides to go off and as the OP noted, you're never quite sure when that's going to happen.

We've tried several different brands; doesn't make a difference. I'll tear it down this weekend anad see if I can figure out what the deal is. Thanks for the link Bohemian.

Dragon, did you send yours back or see a gunsmith? Curious what your resolution was.

Hobie


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:06 am 
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No I haven't sent it in yet. I'm looking into checking out the local gun smiths. I know it's leagal to ship the firearms fedex to Beretta but I'm kinda lerry of it. I'm trying to save up cash so that when I take it in I can pay for repairs. It is a nice little gun when it works, I used a Ruger Mk 2 or 3 but I didnlt like how close the slide was tro my hand and the neos is alot more comfortable I'll let you all know what happens when I find out and thank you all for the help.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 12:02 am 
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I've seen similar problems caused by a burr on the firing pin or in the channel that the pin rides in. Have you done much dry firing with this gun? Generally, dry firing .22s is not recommended because the firing pin can hit the breechface and damage the tip of the pin
or even bend it and cause it to bind in the channel.

Just a couple of things to consider.

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 4:25 pm 
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No I don;t dry fire my guns. I've read it can be really hard on firing pins But I'll pull out the firing pin and check and see if there is a bur on it thanks for the info.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 4:54 pm 
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parap1445 wrote:
Generally, dry firing .22s is not recommended because the firing pin can hit the breechface and damage the tip of the pin
or even bend it and cause it to bind in the channel.


I was talking to my gun guru about this today. I was somewhat astonished at the last Appleseed shoot I attended that they were encouraging dry firing during the prep period on the line.

My guru said most modern 22lr's have a recess cut in the breech face to alleviate this problem and that most modern 22lr firing pins are made of harder material than the breech face.

Sounded plausible to me. But it's just one (fairly knowledgeable) guy's opinion.

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 10:58 pm 
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Dean, you made me go open the gun safe and look, I have two .22s, both Rugers, a 10-22 rifle and a MKII pistol.
The only recess cut in the breach on either of them is at the 3 o'clock position and is for the extractor. The firing pin looks to me like it would strike at 12 o'clock on the breach face.

I would not doubt that the firing pins are made of much harder metal than the older guns. The "dry firing rim-fires is bad" is something that was told to me over 30 years ago and no one ever told me different. It could very well be that it's not a problem in modern guns.

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 11:17 pm 
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I remembered reading in my 10/22 instruction manual that it was safe to dry fire a 10/22.

I went on Rugers site and downloaded the 10/22 instruction manual and copied this out of there:

Quote:
With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off”
position and pull the trigger to decock it. The rifle can be “dry fired” for
practice as long as it is empty and pointed in a safe direction.


I then downloaded the Mk111 pistol manual and found this in there.

Quote:
With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off” (F)
position and pull the trigger to decock the pistol. The pistol can be dry fired as
long as the firing pin stop is in place


Here is what the Mk 11 manual says
Quote:
5. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off” (F)
position and pull the trigger to decock the pistol. The pistol can be dry fired as
long as the firing pin stop is in place (See NOTE in step 5 on page 21).


Here is what Ruger says about the firing pin stop in its Mk11 and MK111 pistols
Quote:
Before sliding bolt into receiver, BE CERTAIN that the firing pin stop (part number A03500, a small pin) is in the bolt. Without this pin, the first time the trigger is pulled on an assembled pistol, the firing pin will fly so far forward so as to irreparably dent the rear end of the chamber of the barrel, making the pistol useless.


So it looks like at least Rugers .22's are safe to dry fire.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 11:37 pm 
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Yup, sounds like they have a stop built in to prevent the firing pin from hitting the breach face - good to know (guess I should have read my manual more thouroughly :oops: )

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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2009 8:07 am 
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No problem dry firing 1022s. And it would be virtually impossible to tune a 1022 trigger group if you couldn't dry fire it. As for other manufacture's older .22s, though, I wouldn't do it, or do it very, very little. For example, a used Ithica that my dad bought had been dry fired so much over the years (since 1972) that the firing pin had worn (pounded out) a very substantial groove in the chamber face. Bottom line is that if you can help it on most models, it's best not to do it or use a snap cap (if you can find a good one for .22).

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