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 New revolver 642 
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:13 am 
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No hammer block in a 642 since there is no exposed hammer to hit on anything.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:57 am 
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Ramoel wrote:
No hammer block in a 642 since there is no exposed hammer to hit on anything.

I was referring to plblark's comment, I was guessing that was what flew on him when he was removing the side plate of a S&W revolver.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:04 pm 
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Sorry Cobb, I wasn't trying to nit-pick on anyone about the hammer block. Until I got a 642 and opened it up I thought all S&W's had a hammer block. I figured it was an interesting fact that many might not be aware of.

When I took the sideplate off mine, my first thought was that the factory had forgotten to install it. After looking closer I saw that it didn't have provision for one and figured it was because of the enclosed hammer.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:16 pm 
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Ramoel wrote:
Sorry Cobb, I wasn't trying to nit-pick on anyone about the hammer block. Until I got a 642 and opened it up I thought all S&W's had a hammer block. I figured it was an interesting fact that many might not be aware of.

When I took the sideplate off mine, my first thought was that the factory had forgotten to install it. After looking closer I saw that it didn't have provision for one and figured it was because of the enclosed hammer.

Actually I didn't even think of that and never thought you nick picking, just spreading a little more knowledge. :D I've never had the side plate off of my 642, but have had it off several Smiths with hammers though. Basically I was kinda ribbing plblark because I figured he made his statement because he lost a part when removing a side plate on a Smith and the only thing that I thought that would readily fly away was the hammer block. :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:33 pm 
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And also be sure you use a set of quality screw drivers or you WILL bugger up the slots on the screws and you will notice it every time you pick up the gun. I bought a used revolver (686) that a home gunsmith/blacksmith had tried to take the side plate off and messed up one of the screw heads.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 6:43 pm 
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Good point on the screwdrivers MNBud. Brownell's sells a nice set of gunsmith screwdrivers. You shouldn't try to remove a S&W sideplate without the proper tools.

For those not familiar with gunsmith screwdrivers, they are hollow ground, not tapered like your normal household screwdriver. When you stick the proper driver into the screw slot it will stick there and won't mar the edges when you turn the screw. The normal tapered screwdriver bit will try to climb out of the slot and ruin the edges.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:40 pm 
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*raises hand* QUESTION!

Dry fire 50 time per day. Check

Added Crest to my list of multi-taskers. Check

Now the question.

With or without snap-caps?

:?:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:07 am 
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johnalbert wrote:
*raises hand* QUESTION!

Dry fire 50 time per day. Check

Added Crest to my list of multi-taskers. Check

Now the question.

With or without snap-caps?

:?:

I believe the answer you will get the most is you don't need to use snap caps in modern revolvers. My answer is, I have snap caps that I use to practice loading with a speed loader and strip loaders so I put them in any time I will be dry firing.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:07 am 
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Question about the toothpaste idea:
I've heard it from a couple places and it seems to make sense. The Question:

What about unintended consequences? When an action job is done, very specific work is done on specific parts to get the desired effect. With this fill the cavity method, ALL the moving arts are being micro-abraded. Isn't that potentially wearing on parts that have no effect on the "action" or which you may not need / WANT to be abraded?

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