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 Snake shot? 
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 Post subject: Snake shot?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 12:10 pm 
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The pattern is worthless after maybe 10 feet (CCI claims 15), but inside 10 feet the .38/357 loadings deliver 145 #9 pellets.

I'm sure it's not recommended for normal carry, but it might make an interesting choice for extremely close quarters where even point aiming was hard -- the example that comes to mind would be in a carjacking situation where you're shooting offhand at an awkward angle.

Probably not effective as a "manstopper", but I'd wager it'd slow down anyone who got a couple of them in the face/neck.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 4:23 pm 
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Maybe my comment belongs in the "stupid stuff" section but when I was buying my j-frame revolver, the guy behind the counter (cabela's) tried to sell me bird shot telling me that it's the only thing you should have in a carry gun that way it just peppers them and you don't run into the liability issues of using lethal force :roll:

It just reminded me of that...


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 5:30 pm 
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I know I've seen derringers that will chamber .410 shotshells advertised specifically for carry use.

But pretty much everything OTHER than using deadly force to counter deadly force probably fits in the "Stupid Stuff" category.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2005 7:51 am 
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snake shot out of my .44 mag would not break a beer bottle at 10 ft.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2005 9:15 am 
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JCinMN wrote:
Maybe my comment belongs in the "stupid stuff" section but when I was buying my j-frame revolver, the guy behind the counter (cabela's) tried to sell me bird shot telling me that it's the only thing you should have in a carry gun that way it just peppers them and you don't run into the liability issues of using lethal force :roll:

It just reminded me of that...


It belongs in a "You won't belive what some idiot sales clerk tried to tell me this time" thread.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2005 9:26 am 
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mnblaster wrote:
snake shot out of my .44 mag would not break a beer bottle at 10 ft.


Interesting! Did you try at 5 feet?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2005 7:54 am 
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I didn't try it at 5' but I'm sure it would have broke it. I agree that a face full of snake shot would change the mind of a bad guy but I am more comfortable with the big bullet = big hole mindset.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2005 6:55 pm 
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mnblaster wrote:
I didn't try it at 5' but I'm sure it would have broke it. I agree that a face full of snake shot would change the mind of a bad guy but I am more comfortable with the big bullet = big hole mindset.


No disagreement there. A carjacking type scenerio is about the only place it might work.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 12:19 pm 
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Been toying with those handgun 'shot' loads on and off since the 70's. It's true that they make a big bang, but for raw energy delivery, I don't think it could beat a wad of Red Man spit out with a little gusto :P


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:32 am 
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I get better results with my own handloaded shot shells with alot more shot weight. I use .357 maximum brass for .38 special loads and 30-40 Krag brass for my .44 specials loads.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:07 am 
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cobb wrote:
I get better results with my own handloaded shot shells with alot more shot weight. I use .357 maximum brass for .38 special loads and 30-40 Krag brass for my .44 specials loads.


I read something about custom shot loads a while back. What do you use for shot, wads and for crimping (capping I guess would be a better term) the cases?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:34 pm 
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mobocracy wrote:
cobb wrote:
I get better results with my own handloaded shot shells with alot more shot weight. I use .357 maximum brass for .38 special loads and 30-40 Krag brass for my .44 specials loads.


I read something about custom shot loads a while back. What do you use for shot, wads and for crimping (capping I guess would be a better term) the cases?


Currently I have #9 shot, the smallest I could find at the time and a friend gave me a couple pounds of it.

For wads, I have used several materials, but the cheapest and seems to work well is the Styrofoam type material that is used for back packaging for meats in the grocery store. I take the appropriate sized deprived case, use a file to sharpen the case mouth and use it like a cookie cutter to cut the wads. Use a small Allen wrench or similar to insert into the primer pocket flash hole to push out the now cut wads.

I will roll crimp the mouth of the case just slightly after I have the powder and wad in place, then fill with shot flush with the case mouth and smear a weather or bathroom caulking over the mouth of the case and shot. When using white caulking, the case mouth now looks like a white chocolate cookie, and I think the small roll crimp gives the caulking a little something to grab on to. I have tried cardboard, glue, and other materials, but under recoil they have all let loose, and shot is rolling out the front of my cylinder. :oops:

Lets touch on the brass. If using .357 Maximum brass in a .38 Special, of course it will not go in the cylinder any farther than a .38 Special brass. What I did was to use a 9mm seating die with the seater removed. I run the .357 Maximum brass into the die, the taper crimp will create a shoulder and I do this just far enough that the .357 Maximum brass will now fully fit into the .38 Special cylinder, no farther. This gives me a brass case with a shoulder that is almost as long as the .38 Special cylinder, thus alot more shot because space is not be taken up by those blue Speer shot capsules. Now a WARNING,,,,when creating the shoulder on the .357 maximum brass with the 9mm seating die, DO NOT MOVE THE SHOULDER BACK ANYMORE THAN NEEDED TO GET THE .357 MAXIMUM BRASS TO CHAMBER IN THE .38 SPECIAL CHAMBER. If you move the shoulder too far back, when you fire it, it will fire form the brass to fit the cylinder and if the shoulder is too far back, the shoulder will move forward violently and force the case rearward, locking up the cylinder.

I do get a very good pattern with this load, or a least I can say it is a lot better than what I use to get with the Speer Shot capsules.

For a .44 it is easier, just cut the 30-40 Krag brass the same length as the cylinder and load the same as above. The 30-40 Krag brass will chamber in a .44 because it is a tapered case.

Any more questions?????????? :P


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:40 pm 
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cobb wrote:
Any more questions?????????? :P


Just one -- have you ever tried using wax for the capping media? Seems like it would be easier to remove from your barrel than caulk, although perhaps caulk is firm enough that it will eject without fouling the barrel.

It'd be interesting to see what the largest shot size you could fit would be.

It'd be super expensive, but I just bought some #6 magnums with copper plated lead shot for pheasant -- that might be an interesting snake shot shot.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:47 pm 
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I would think that you would have the same problems that I had with other shot retaining compounds. The wax is too, shall we say rigid, thus breaking loose under recoil.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 10:55 am 
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My grandfather once won a .22LR 9 shot revolver. Some kinda deal where ya bought a chance . . . anyway, it would be a nice antique if he hadn't carried it in the field quail and pheasant hunting . . . loaded with snakeshot. Yup, he used it for what it was meant for. Dispatching snakes. The bore looks really nasty. Rest of the gun is in good shape, but I sure wouldn't run that through any gun that I liked. Come to think of it I guess my grandfather didn't either.

As for snake shot in a defensive scenario against a two legged snake. . .

http://www.securityarms.com/20010315/ga ... 0/2450.htm This is about all I'd feel good about using Otherwise, it'll just be conventional wisdom for me. An adequate round with a good ratio of penetration to expansion.

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